I run a small landscaping company, and last year, I needed 8 scissor lifts for tree-trimming season. New ones would’ve cost $12,000—way out of my budget. So I bought 8 used lifts for $4,000, crossed my fingers, and got to work. Half the cylinders looked rough, but with a little elbow grease and $200 each in parts, I got them to run for 3 years. Now I swear by refurbishing used scissor lift cylinders—if you know what to look for, they’re not a gamble, they’re a steal.

1. How to Spot a Good Used Cylinder (My 5-Minute Check)

Not all used cylinders are worth saving. I’ve bought lemons before, so now I use this checklist—takes 15 minutes, saves me from headaches:

1.1 Give It a Good Look

• Piston Rod: It should shine like a mirror. If it’s dull, the plating’s worn. If there are rust spots or deep scratches, walk away—refurbishing it will cost more than a new cylinder. Last year, I almost bought one with pitting; glad I checked—would’ve been a waste.

• Barrel: No dents, no cracks. Even a tiny dent will make the piston stick. Check the welds too—cracks here mean it could burst under pressure.

• Seal Area: If there’s dried fluid or crusty seal bits, the previous owner neglected it. I pass on these—who knows what else is wrong inside?

• Threads: Stripped threads on the hoses mean leaks. I once bought a cylinder with stripped threads; had to replace the whole end cap—cost me an extra $100.

1.2 Test the Pressure (Rent a Gauge!)

You can rent a hydraulic pressure gauge for $50 a day—do it. Hook it to the cylinder, extend the rod, and apply full pressure. Hold it for 5 minutes. A 5% pressure drop is fixable; over 10%? It’s toast. I tested one cylinder that dropped 15%—saved me from buying a dud.

1.3 See If It Leaks

If you can test it on a lift, raise the platform and let it sit for an hour. If it sinks more than 3cm, there’s an internal leak. I had one that sank 5cm—turned out the piston seal was shot, but replacing it cost $20, so it was worth it.

1.4 Give the Rod a Push

With pressure off, push and pull the rod. It should move smooth—no grinding, no sticking. Stiffness means the barrel is scratched; you’ll need to hone it. I had one that stuck halfway—honing the barrel fixed it for $100.

1.5 Ask for Records

If the seller has maintenance logs—seal replacements, fluid changes—buy it. A cylinder with records is twice as likely to last. I bought two cylinders from a rental company that kept logs; they’re still running great.

2. Refurbishing a Used Cylinder (Step-by-Step, Like I Teach My Crew)

Refurbishing isn’t rocket science—just take your time. Here’s how I do it:

2.1 Fix the Piston Rod

The rod takes the most abuse. For minor scratches, I sand with 600-grit sandpaper, then polish with 1,000-grit until it’s smooth. For rust, I use a wire brush, then a chrome touch-up kit ($20). Deep scratches? I buy an OEM rod ($150–$200)—aftermarket rods are cheaper but never fit quite right.

2.2 Replace Every Seal (Don’t Cut Corners!)

Even if seals look good, replace them. Used seals are on their last legs. I use OEM seals or upgrade to Viton seals if the cylinder will be outside. Replace the rod seal, piston seal, and wiper seal—partial replacements mean leaks later. A $30 seal kit beats a $800 cylinder.

2.3 Clean the Barrel (Hone If Needed)

Debris inside the barrel tears up the piston. I flush it with hydraulic cleaner ($15), then wipe it with a lint-free cloth. If the inside feels rough, I rent a portable honing tool ($100/day) to smooth it. Aim for Ra 0.4–0.8 μm—smooth enough to protect the new seal.

2.4 Check the Piston and Valves

If the piston is 0.5mm smaller than the barrel, replace it ($50–$100). A loose piston causes pressure loss. I also clean valves with compressed air—clogged valves make the lift slow and strain the cylinder.

3. How to Keep a Refurbished Cylinder Running for 5 Years

Refurbished cylinders need a little extra love the first 6 months:

• Break It In: Run the lift at 50% capacity for the first 10 hours. Let the new seal settle in—don’t max it out right away.

• Weekly Checks: Inspect for leaks, clean the rod, check fluid levels. I once caught a small leak early; fixed it with a $5 seal instead of replacing the cylinder.

• Monthly Fluid Change: Replace oil after the first month to flush out debris from refurbishing.

• Quarterly Pressure Tests: Make sure pressure stays consistent. Catching a small leak early saves big.

4. My Landscaping Company Success Story

Remember those 8 used lifts I bought for $4,000? I spent $1,600 ($200 each) on refurbishments: Viton seals, rod refinishing, barrel cleaning. I followed the break-in plan, and after 3 years:

• Only 1 cylinder needed replacement ($800).

• Total cost: $6,400—half the price of new lifts.

I use those lifts every day for trimming trees and installing lights. They’re not perfect, but they’re reliable—and that’s all a small business needs.

5. When to Walk Away

Some cylinders aren’t worth fixing:

• Bent barrels: You need special tools to straighten them—costs $500+.

• Cracked rods: Replacement costs almost as much as a new cylinder.

• Welded barrels: Welds weaken the metal—unsafe under pressure.

I once passed on a cylinder with a welded barrel. The seller wanted $100, but I knew it would fail. Saved myself a headache.

Conclusion

Used scissor lift cylinders aren’t a risk—they’re a smart move for small businesses. With a quick check, some basic refurb work, and a little extra care, you can get 3–5 years of use for a fraction of the cost. I’ve built my fleet on these—no need to spend big to get reliable equipment.